It’s not random that some days your skin will appear fresh and smooth, while on others it’s dull and uneven. There’s a process behind it.
Stratum corneum is the upper layer of the skin epidermis, and it’s also known as the dead skin layer.
In the earlier years of our life, the dead skin layer takes about 20 days to shade off and for a fresher, and healthier skin to appear. With time though, the renewal process slows down, taking over 30 days. [1] This, in addition to other factors like hormones and environmental stressors, result in a dry, dull, and uneven toned skin.
The tough layer can also block pores, causing acne breakouts and other blemishes to the skin. This is where exfoliation comes in, as it helps the turnover process to be less slower and more effective.
However, for most people, choosing the right exfoliation product can be a problem, with questions like:
Will it irritate my skin?
Which is the better option, synthetic or natural?
Which is safer?
And, which one will work more efficiently?
Asking these questions is very important, as it’s true, some exfoliators can cause redness, irritation or peeling to the skin. Different exfoliators also have different levels of efficiency.
We’ll be answering all these questions, from the various types, to which one has adverse effects and the safest and most efficient options. But first, why do we need exfoliation?
Why Is Exfoliation Important?
Benefits of Exfoliation
If you use the right type of exfoliation the right way, you stand to enjoy many perks, including:
- Better absorption of skincare products
The dead skin layer often prevents serums and other skincare products from penetrating deeply into the skin. However, after exfoliation and the dead skin out of the way, the ingredients in the products are absorbed better, allowing maximum performance.
- Increased production of collagen
Continuous exfoliation has been known to boost collagen production. Collagen is the protein responsible for elasticity and skin plumping leading to a vibrant and glowing appearance. The protein also prevents premature ageing and related sagging.
- Prevention of acne
Exfoliation helps remove the dead skin and other impurities on the layer of the skin which are the major causes of acne and breakouts.
- Brighter, and more even-toned skin
The dead skin layer causes a dull and uneven tone. A good exfoliant removes this layer, revealing a fresh, smooth and healthy skin and over time, minimises hyperpigmentation.
- Reduced chances of in-grown hair
Ingrown hairs are as a result of blockage caused by the dead skin layer, preventing them from reaching the outermost surface. Exfoliation helps get rid of them and prevent future formation.
What Are the Types of Exfoliation?
1. Physical Exfoliation
Physical exfoliation involves using a scrub or tool to manually remove dead skin cells. Common physical exfoliants include scrubs, brushes, and sponges.
Benefits: Immediate results, smoother skin texture.
Disadvantages of Physical Exfoliation
- Micro-Tears: Large or irregular particles can cause tiny abrasions, damaging the skin barrier and leading to sensitivity and irritation.
- Over-Exfoliation: Frequent use can strip natural oils, causing dryness, inflammation, and breakouts.
- Uneven Exfoliation: Manual pressure and technique can lead to inconsistent exfoliation, with some areas over-exfoliated and others under-exfoliated.
- Increased Sensitivity: Regular use can make the skin more sensitive to environmental stressors and UV damage.
- Not Suitable for All Skin Types: It can worsen conditions like rosacea, eczema, or acne, leading to flare-ups and discomfort.
2. Chemical Exfoliation
Chemical exfoliants use acids to shade off the dead skin cells and promote cell turnover. The most common types are AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids).
These acids are further categorised into two, based on how they are made. There are synthetic chemical acids which are synthesised in the lab and natural, botanical acids, extracted from plants.
Which one is better? We’ll compare the two later on.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
AHA is among the most commonly used exfoliating acids. They work by loosening the dead skin bond, allowing them to slough off, and encouraging production of healthier, fresher skin cells. Common AHA include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, and mandelic acid. [2]
AHA are ideal exfoliating acids and work great on most skins. However, since they are water soluble and only work on the surface of the skin rather than penetrating into the pores, they are best for dry and sun-damaged skin.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA)
BHA is also a type of hydroxy acid. The most common BHA is salicylic acid. Though categorised as AHA, some levels of citric acid can also be classified as BHA.
BHA is oil-based, and so it works both on the surface of the skin and in the pores.They slough off the dead skin, as well as penetrate deep into the pores, removing dead cells and excess sebum. For this reason, BHAs tend to be more beneficial to oily and acne-prone skin.
Natural Vs. Synthetic Sources of AHA and BHA
This is where most questions come and a few misconceptions too. Natural AHAs and BHAs are known to be very safe for both sensitive and normal skin. But, most people tend not to use them with the misconception that they are not as efficient.
While it’s true synthetic acids act fast and are effective because of their smaller molecular size, natural acids are just as effective. But, since they have a larger molecular size, their penetration is more gradual. This means they may take longer to show results, but when they eventually do, they offer benefits beyond exfoliation.
How?
Natural acids contain other compounds like vitamins, antioxidants, and phytonutrients. This enables them to provide additional benefits like hydration and skin brightening.
On the other hand, synthetic acids have small molecular size and are very strong, effective and work fast. However, they tend to have adverse effects on the skin such as redness, irritation and inflammation.
Which is the Better Option?
Efficiency and speed
Both acids are effective exfoliants and will give your skin a healthy and vibrant appearance. However, botanical acids may need more time to start showing visible results because they have a bigger molecular size that’s absorbed more gradually.
Gentleness
Natural acids are safer and gentler to the skin, making them ideal for any type of skin with almost no irritation (unless someone is allergic to a specific plant). Synthetic acids can be too strong and might cause skin redness, irritation, peeling or inflammation.
Added Benefits
Besides exfoliation, natural acids also offer benefits like skin brightening, hydration and moisture retention, and antioxidant protection.
While natural acids are the better option as they are safe, have more benefits and are just as effective, your preferences play a big role in deciding.
If you need a quick method then synthetic acids are the choice. However, if you are okay with slow, but cleaner and safer options, natural acids are ideal.
The Best Ways of Using Natural Sources of AHAs and BHAs
BHAs and AHAs have been found to be very effective. However, being chemicals, they may have effects on the skin if not used properly. Therefore, it is important to:
- Start small: Your skin needs time to get used to new ingredients, and so you should avoid bombarding it with several new agents all at once. Start by applying the product 2-3 times a week and eventually daily.
- Use sunscreen: Even natural sources of acids can increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Sunscreen helps prevent irritation and other possible effects.
- Moisturise: Follow exfoliation with a hydrating serum and a face oil to replenish, shield and soothe the skin.
- Avoid mixing with other exfoliants: Using chemical exfoliants with other exfoliants like scrubs can be too harsh on the skin, hence causing irritation.
- Practise holistic wellness: Skincare starts from within because our mind and skin are interconnected. Factors such as stress can manifest on the skin through acne breakouts, redness, dryness, and premature ageing. Enhance the benefits of exfoliation and support overall skin health through practices like facial massage, mindfulness, and proper nutrition can.
3. Enzymatic Exfoliation
Enzymatic exfoliants use natural enzymes to break down the keratin protein in dead skin cells. The common sources of such exfoliants include fruits like papaya (papain), pineapple (bromelain), and pumpkin.
Enzyme exfoliants work by dissolving the top layer of the skin, revealing a smoother and fresher skin. [3]
These exfoliants are gentle enough for both normal and sensitive skin types, providing a mild exfoliation without irritation.
What’s the Best Way to Use Enzymatic Exfoliants?
Use enzyme exfoliants 2-3 times a week and eventually daily. Some products also mix enzymatic exfoliants and botanical acids. These are ideal as they offer both effectiveness and skin safety.
Product Recommendation for Gentle and Effective Exfoliation
RELEASE - Dual-Phase Resurfacing Cleanser
RELEASE is our multi-structured dual-phase (2-1) cleanser designed to clean, gently exfoliate and brighten the skin in one step.
It is made purely of botanical ingredients, making it not only effective but also safe for every skin type.
The cleanser is potent with:
- Green Lime Caviar: This is rich in natural alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), particularly citric acid, which gently exfoliates the skin. It also has antioxidants, vitamin C and E, which help brighten and protect the skin. Additionally, its anti-inflammatory properties help soothe the skin.
- Papaya: This has both natural AHA acids and papain enzymes, both of which are safe and effective exfoliators.
- Willow Bark: Due to its natural salicylic acid content (BHA) and anti-inflammatory properties, willow bark is excellent for deep cleansing, and treating acne-prone skin. It also adequately tightens pores.
- Quadong: Quandong is rich with antioxidants, anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties. It is an efficient supportive ingredient, providing nourishment and protection to complement other active exfoliating ingredients.
- Elderflower: While elderflower does not possess exfoliating abilities, it offers significant benefits of soothing, toning, and brightening the skin.
Soapberry: Soapberry acts as a gentle surfactant, effectively cleansing the skin without stripping it of its natural oils.
Summarising Exfoliation Benefits of RELEASE
- Packed with all these nutrients, RELEASE offers numerous benefits. Here’s a quick summary:
- Gently and effectively exfoliates the skin.
- Deeply cleanses and treats acne-prone skin.
- Soothesand calms irritated skin.
- Hydrates and nourishes the skin.
- Brightens the complexion and protects against free radicals.
References
- Maeda, K. New Method of Measurement of Epidermal Turnover in Humans. Cosmetics 2017, 4, 47. [MDPI]
- Alberts B, Johnson A, Lewis J, et al. Molecular Biology of the Cell. 4th edition. New York: Garland Science; 2002. Epidermis and Its Renewal by Stem Cells. [PubMed]
- Packianathan, Nilani & Kandasamy, Ruckmani. Skin Care with Herbal Exfoliants. Functional Plant Science and Biotechnology. 2011, 5, 94-97. [Research Gate]
